As an example, Christmas is celebrated by the Western churches on December 25, by the Eastern on January 7, and by the Armenians on January 19. Baseball The Israel Baseball League (W ), launched in 2007 to much enthusiasm from Jewish American baseball fans, proved a complete fiasco, with players left unpaid, investors out of pocket, bats that kept breaking and facilities that would shame an amateur Sunday league. If baseball does return to Israel, Jerusalem’s team, the Jerusalem Gold, are expected to use the Kraft Family Stadium as their home ground.

Orient House Behind the Tombs of the Kings, at 8 Abu Obeida, Orient House was formerly the Jerusalem office of the PLO. Built in 1897, the house belonged to the Al-Husseinis, one of the two main Palestinian political families. During the time of the Oslo Peace Accords (1993–2001), it was almost like a Palestinian embassy, though not officially recognized by Israel, whose government would protest whenever any foreign dignitary paid court there. During the Second Intifada, following a particularly nasty suicide bomb attack in West Jerusalem in which fifteen people died, the Israelis closed it up, and today Orient House stands empty and forlorn.

It was part of the same building plan, ordered by Suleiman the Magnificent, which included the reconstruction of the ramparts (see p.271). Suleiman had six of these sabils installed in the Old City. English Sun–Fri 11am; W ) is well worth taking time to explore.

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– the “Holy Light” of Jerusalem , sceptic Michael Kalopoulos claims to have replicated the Holy Fire, but the faithful continue to believe anyway. Jerusalem’s Armenian Community There have been Armenians in Jerusalem since before the Byzantine period – immigrants from ancient Armenia , which, in 301 AD, became the first state to accept Christianity as its religion. As early as 638 AD, Caliph Omar Ibn al-Khattab guaranteed the religious rights of Jerusalem’s Armenian community, a guarantee respected by subsequent Muslim rulers. Under Crusader rule too, the Armenians fared better than the other eastern churches due to links between the Crusader kingdoms and the Armenian kingdom of Cilicia.

The area is also dotted with yeshivas, whose students are predominantly American “born-again” Jews. Palestinians are prevented by Israeli law from acquiring houses in the Jewish Quarter following a 1981 Supreme Court decision which prohibits non-Jews from buying property here, but a few Palestinian families do still remain in what is left of the old Magharba Quarter (see p.90). Al-Kilaniya Next door to the Al-Taziya, to its west, the three-domed Al-Kilaniya is notable for its splendid high arched doorway, decorated with murqana stalactites.

Even in November and February, the heat can take it out of you, especially as Jericho’s tourist sights are quite a long way apart. Always therefore take sun protection and water – the dangers of dehydration, sunstroke and heatstroke (see p.38) are very real here. Goldstein, wearing Israeli army uniform and carrying an M-16 rifle, shot dead 29 worshippers before being overpowered and beaten to death. More people died in the aftermath, most of them shot by panicking Israeli troops; although numbers vary it’s thought that a further ten people were killed, perhaps more. Shockingly, Goldstein is still regarded as a hero by some people on Israel’s far right, particularly among the settlers. Entering the Jewish section, round the other side of the complex, you come into the calm interior of what was until 1994 part of the mosque, but is now hived off as a synagogue.

2002 saw a fist-fight between Ethiopians and Copts over the positioning of a chair on the roof (see p.63), and in 2004, Greeks and Catholics came to blows because the Franciscan friars had left open the door of their chapel during a Greek Orthodox ceremony. The most recent flare-up occurred on Palm Sunday in 2008 when the Armenians tried to kick out a Greek priest who was present at one of their ceremonies in apparent violation of the Status Quo; this sparked off a violent brawl in which two Armenian worshippers were arrested. Since no sect will trust the others with the key, the church is opened and closed daily by a local Muslim family who have been its custodians since the twelfth century. Tel al-Sultan and around Tel al-Sultan, the tel of ancient Jericho (daily 8am–5pm; 10NIS) is 2km northwest of the modern town. The excavations (mostly below ground level, so you’ll be looking down at them) reveal numerous settlements built upon the ruins of their predecessors.

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Its grounds contain the remains of an Arab village, Deir Yassin, whose fate in the 1948 war remains an emotive symbol for Palestinians and a source of shame for Israelis. At 4.30am on 10 April 1948, the village of nine hundred inhabitants, which had co-existed in relative harmony with its Jewish neighbours, but was strategically located, was woken by a 132-man force of Irgun and Stern Gang irregulars. The mainstream Zionist militia, the Haganah, had allocated Deir Yassin to the rightwing irregulars in the belief that its capture would be difficult to mess up. It was Jews from the neighbouring village of Givat Sha’ul who finally halted the slaughter.

Citizens of the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and most EU countries, do not need a visa to travel to Israel for up to three months , but foreign passports must be valid for at least six months beyond your date of entry. Anyone with Israeli dual nationality is required to use their Israeli passport; the same applies for anyone with Palestinian dual nationality – Palestinian passport holders also require proof of Jerusalem residence or a permit to enter Israel or Jerusalem . This involves a series of questions about who you are, where you are going, and the purpose of your visit. If you have a Muslimsounding name, or have visited Arab countries, you may get extra attention from the security services. If you are Jewish, and particularly if you have family in Israel, you are unlikely to be submitted to much questioning. Note also that Israeli stamps in your passport can cause problems when travelling on to Arab countries (see p.21).

Here, the tall entrance arch is decorated with black and white mosaics and, to the left of the doorway, a pair of identical iron-grilled windows are finely embellished with red and cream stone on grey marble. The inner courtyard is surrounded by rooms once used by students, but which are now family homes. The Little Wailing Wall If you want an idea of what the Wailing Wall looked like before the Western Wall Esplanade was opened up in 1967, head down the passage leading off to the left at the very end of Bab al-Hadid Street.